If you’re in need of a warm grandmotherly embrace in the form of food, I recommend heading to Abuelita Coco at 4821 West 95th Street in Oak Lawn.

As Oak Lawn’s first vegan cafe, Abuelita Coco was created in honor of Maria Del Socorro Serna, affectionately known as Coco. Born on June 12, 1952, Coco was remembered by the love and care she put into everything she did, especially her cooking. Her meals weren’t just about feeding people, they were a way of expressing love. That same love became the foundation for Abuelita Coco, which opened on June 12, 2023.

Abuelita Coco aims to create a space centered around love and Mexican culture while preparing food with high-quality ingredients and the same care that Coco brought to her cooking. The cafe prioritizes whole foods, using ingredients such as coconut meat, avocado oil, loose-leaf teas and other organic ingredients.

The cafe was recommended to me by my communications professor, Professor G. But after learning about the story behind the cafe, I realized there was much more to it than another simple place to grab a meal.

The cafe’s founder, Casandra Flores, had always dreamed of opening a restaurant, but it wasn’t until being inspired by her grandmother Coco’s legacy that her dream began to take shape. Coco’s influence also carried into Flores’ personal life.

After becoming vegan in 2017, Flores began cooking vegan food with her mother, Sandra Serena Lopez. She envisioned one day having her mother serve as the chef of the cafe using recipes passed down from Coco, which eventually came to fruition.

Today, Abuelita Coco represents much more than a cafe. It serves as a tribute to a grandmother whose presence continues to influence the people who knew and loved her. Her memory is reflected in the restaurant’s food, atmosphere and mission.

For me, veganism is important because of my love for animals. I have always cared deeply about animals, and learning more about how they live and die has made me think more about the choices I make with food.

I understand suffering is a natural part of life, especially when it comes to animals in the wild and predation, but if I can enjoy a meal without an animal having to be killed for it, I would rather choose that option.

I also find it interesting to see veganism become something that can be shared across generations and cultures. My Mexican niece is vegan as well, which makes a place like Abuelita Coco especially appealing to me. The cafe shows that Mexican food and vegan food can come together without losing the culture, flavor and family traditions that make the cuisine so special.

When I arrived at Abuelita Coco, I was the only customer in the cafe. Neil Diamond’s “Sweet Caroline” was playing over the speakers. While I would have appreciated hearing Mexican music to complement the cafe’s atmosphere, I could understand the decision to play music that may appeal to a wider customer base.

I also noticed the papel picado decorations that went across the ceiling, along with glass cups adorned with beautiful patterns and textures. These details, among many others, made the café feel authentic and gave me the feeling that I was eating in my own abuela’s home.

I started my meal off with an appetizer: the corn ribs.

These were phenomenal. The Abuelita Coco sauce was flavorful and savory, while the mayo added the perfect finishing touch. The combination of flavors made for an excellent start to the meal. 

For my main course, I ordered the “fish” tacos, which feature lightly battered coconut meat in place of fish, topped with coleslaw and chipotle aioli and served with homemade rice and tortillas. 

Let me just say: these were by far the best tacos I have ever had at a restaurant. The coleslaw and chipotle aioli were outstanding, but what stood out most was the “fish” itself. It was difficult to believe that the lightly battered filling was actually coconut meat. It had a remarkably similar texture and crunch to battered fish, while remaining completely vegan.

Experiences like this made me think about how much potential there is for plant-based alternatives to become part of everyday dining. If restaurants could create more dishes that are both nutritious and satisfying without sacrificing flavor or texture, plant-based eating could become much more approachable.

The homemade rice was light and almost fluffy, making it a great complement to the tacos. The homemade tortillas also stood out. Unlike some heavily processed tortillas, these tasted light and fresh and did not leave me feeling overly full after the meal.

I also ordered a cup of Astragalus and Holy Basil tea with maple. 

The tea was smooth and refreshing. Rather than coming from a conventional plastic tea bag, it was made with loose-leaf tea, which added to the cafe’s emphasis on natural ingredients. What especially caught my attention was the variety of herbal teas available. The menu offered numerous options featuring different herbs and ingredients, making the tea selection another part of the cafe’s focus on health and wellness.

For dessert, I tried the coconut-mint flan. 

My total came to $67.37 before tip.

Expensive? Absolutely. Worth the price? Absolutely. 

The cafe’s focus on wellness extends beyond its food. In addition to its meals and drinks, Abuelita Coco’s offers a variety of health-focused products, including herbal teas, vitamins, protein powders and other organic products.

The selection reinforced the feeling I had throughout my visit: this was more than a simple place to grab a meal. It was a space built around natural ingredients, wellness and an appreciation for plant-based living.

Abuelita Coco’s is a place for everyone. Large families, couples on dates and solo travelers like myself are welcomed just like anyone else who walks through the door. While the price can be expensive, my bill would have been considerably lower if I had ordered just one meal. For the purposes of this review, however, I wanted to experience several different items from the menu.

Abuelita Coco is an experience and a family tradition carried on through food, culture and the memory of Coco. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend experiencing Abuelita Coco for yourself. You won’t regret it.

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Photos by bobby Bartolini